Kashmir

Sharda, Kel, Arang Kel, Ratti Gali Lake, Kutton Waterfall — the Neelum Valley is where mid-summer greens run deepest and every viewpoint feels like a ridge no one else knows about.

May through September is the peak stretch. Ratti Gali and Arang Kel are typically snow-free from June onwards; September gives the clearest skies for photography.

Small groups, guesthouse or boutique-lodge stays in Sharda and Kel, and a paced itinerary that lets you sit at Ratti Gali long enough to actually see it.